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Will be published at 2026-11-05 11:36:00
Before coming to Suzhou, I had always heard that "Suzhou locals love noodles." Only after arriving did I realize just how meticulous a bowl of Suzhou-style noodles can be!
This time, while strolling around Xietang Old Street, I came to 蘇州麵大師・甚美齋麵館. The storefront alone has a strong Jiangnan flavor, with wooden window frames, red plaques, and antique-style architecture that perfectly blends into the atmosphere of Xietang Old Street. The dining space inside is more spacious than expected, with wooden tables and chairs paired with large windows, creating a very comfortable environment.
This place is more than just an ordinary tourist-area noodle shop. Brand director Zhang Xiaodong has long been dedicated to Suzhou-style food culture and holds titles such as inheritor of Suzhou-style soup noodle intangible cultural heritage techniques and inheritor of Jiangsu noodle and snack making techniques. The brand family also includes Shenmei Zhai and Suzhou Noodle Master.
The first time you try Suzhou-style noodles, you’ll notice they are quite different from the noodles we’re used to in Taiwan.
Suzhou-style noodles place great emphasis on the “noodles, broth, and toppings.” Traditional soup noodles feature a clear, fresh broth, and the noodles are usually thin. The most interesting part is the huge variety of toppings—braised pork, fried fish, shrimp, eel, and seasonal options like three-shrimp or crab roe can all be paired.
Shenmei Zhai’s menu is even more impressive. In addition to red broth, white broth, and mixed noodles, there’s an entire row of traditional and stir-fried toppings. So it’s not just about “eating a bowl of noodles”—it feels like you’re also having a full spread of Suzhou cuisine.
“Tu Huangyou” doesn’t mean hairless butter (laughs). Here, “Tu” implies pure and standalone. It mainly refers to extracting the crab roe and crab paste from the crab, stir-frying them into a rich crab-flavored topping.
When served, the noodles and crab roe are separate. Then the entire bowl of golden-orange crab roe is poured over the noodles…
The sight is truly sinful! 😂
After mixing, every strand of noodle is coated in crab aroma. The first bite delivers a rich, fresh crab roe and crab paste flavor with a silky, oily smoothness. This kind of noodle doesn’t need many other toppings—the star is the generous spoonfuls of crab roe. For me, it’s a specialty dish worth trying at least once when visiting Suzhou.
One characteristic of Suzhou cuisine is the hint of sweetness within the savory soy flavor. The duck skin is glossy with oil, and the meat carries the aroma of the braising sauce.
For Taiwanese diners, the first bite might make you think, “It really is sweet!” But as you keep eating, it becomes quite appetizing—a very Jiangnan-style dish.
This dish feels more familiar—beef stir-fried quickly over high heat with green peppers and celery.
The beef is tender, the vegetables retain their crisp texture, and it’s lighter compared to the richer dishes before it. If you’re dining with a group, it’s a good choice to balance the flavors.
This dish may look unassuming, but the standout item on the menu is the 醬爆蝦腰.
Shrimp and pork kidney are quickly stir-fried in a rich sauce. When prepared well, the pork kidney stays crisp and tender, and combined with the sweet freshness of the shrimp, the dish embodies the typical Suzhou-style “fresh, sweet, and savory” profile.
Previously, when thinking of Suzhou food, the first things that came to mind were squirrel-shaped mandarin fish, xiaolongbao, and hairy crabs. This trip made me truly appreciate how seriously Suzhou locals take a bowl of noodles!
Especially the Tu Huangyou noodles I tried—the sight of an entire bowl of crab roe being poured over the noodles still feels indulgent even now. 😂
The biggest advantage of Shenmei Zhai is the wide selection. If you don’t want just noodles, you can do what we did—order several Suzhou-style side dishes to share and experience the sweet, rich, and umami-focused flavors of Suzhou cuisine all at once.
If you’re already planning to visit Xietang Old Street, it’s definitely worth adding to your itinerary.
The restaurant is located at the West Entrance of Xietang Old Street, Suzhou Industrial Park
Phone +86 512-6588-1018
Business hours: 07:00–14:00, 16:30–20:00