On the third day of the Kyushu family trip, we arranged the long-awaited Beppu & Yufuin self-driving day tour. In the morning, we walked from our Hakata accommodation SG RESIDENCE INN HAKATA to a nearby rental car company at Hakata Station to pick up the car, officially starting our Kyushu self-driving journey.
From Fukuoka city, we headed toward Oita Prefecture, arriving in Beppu in about two hours. When it comes to Beppu, many people immediately think of the "Jigoku Meguri" (Hell Pilgrimage).
It's not just about looking at hot spring pools; after actually arriving at "Umi Jigoku" (Sea Hell), the dreamy blue hot spring before your eyes will make you keep pressing the shutter.
Although the temperature was not low that day, watching steam continuously rise from the spring pool, paired with the Tiffany-blue water, was still quite stunning.
At noon, we arranged a visit to the nearby "Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa" to experience Beppu's most representative jigoku-mushi (hell-steamed) cuisine. Choosing ingredients ourselves and placing them into the steamer to wait for completion was not just a meal, but a fun family experience.
Umi Jigoku is located in the Kannawa Onsen area of Beppu and is one of the most popular attractions among Beppu's Seven Hells.
The park is named for its ocean-like deep blue spring pool. The water temperature reaches about 98 degrees, making it a genuine high-temperature hot spring. Umi Jigoku is also an important stop on the Beppu Jigoku pilgrimage.
📍Attraction Info｜Umi Jigoku
Address: 559-1 Kannawa, Beppu City, Oita Prefecture
Phone: 0977-66-0121
Hours: 8:00–17:00
How to get there? Self-driving and public transport info:
By car
Set the navigation directly to Umi Jigoku's address: 559-1 Kannawa, Beppu City, Oita Prefecture (Phone: 0977-66-0121), about 2 hours from Fukuoka city.
After exiting Beppu IC, it's about a 5-minute drive. Umi Jigoku has free parking, making it very convenient by car.
Public transport
Take JR to "Beppu Station," then at the west exit take Kamenoi Bus routes 2, 5, 9, 24, or 41 to Kannawa, about 20 minutes (get off at Umi Jigoku or Kannawa). By taxi, about 15 minutes.
At the ticket counter, admission fees are clear: adults 500 yen per visit, elementary and junior high students 250 yen. If you want to visit multiple hells, you can purchase the 7 Hells Common Pass (adults 2,400 yen, students 1,200 yen) to save on tickets.
With our cute "pass" tickets in hand, we couldn't wait to go inside. Upon entering, there's a large lotus pond.
Shortly after entering the park, we saw the iconic blue hot spring pool from the photos. Honestly, seeing the online photos made me think they were edited, but in reality it's exactly this blue.
The milky blue water, combined with the surrounding rocks and rising white steam, creates a dreamy scene.
That day was sunny and hot, but facing this wonder, we still couldn't resist taking several group photos by the pool!
Besides the signature blue spring pool, Umi Jigoku Park also has a bright red "Akaike Jigoku" (Red Pool Hell).
Walking here that day felt like an unexpected treasure. The red pool contrasts strongly with the blue Umi Jigoku, creating a very eye-catching blue-and-red scene. If Umi Jigoku feels dreamy and healing, Akaike Jigoku adds a touch of mystery.
Many visitors leave right after photographing Umi Jigoku, but it's worth spending more time exploring the park. There are also greenhouses, foot baths, gardens, and Shiroryu Inari Shrine to visit, offering much more than expected.
Walking along, you'll encounter the red torii gates of "Shiroryu Inari Daimyojin" surrounded by greenery.
Along the path, take the kids to the nearby temizuya to wash their hands with the cool spring water, washing away the summer heat. Watching them carefully scoop water with the long ladle, this leisurely pace is one of travel's best rewards.
After visiting Umi Jigoku, lunch was naturally the chance to experience Beppu's famous jigoku-mushi cuisine. We chose Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa, not far from Umi Jigoku.
📍Shop Info｜Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa
Address: Beppu City, Furohon 5 (along Ideyuzaka)
Phone: 0977-66-3775
Hours: 10:00–19:00 (last order for jigoku-mushi at 18:00)
Upon entering the spacious, wood-warm shop, we saw many people enjoying their meals.
Ordering here is very modern, using a self-service ticket machine with Chinese interface, completely easy to operate!
The ticket machine has plenty of pictures with clear prices.
We ordered a refined vegetable platter (pumpkin, lotus root, cabbage, bell peppers, onion, etc.), jigoku-mushi pork slices, bamboo-wrapped white rice, jigoku-mushi egg, corn, plus freshly steamed dumplings and geothermal udon.
After buying the tickets and handing them to staff, they prepare the ingredients and place them in special iron mesh baskets. Then comes the main event—steaming the food yourself!
Staff help put on thick heat-resistant rubber gloves. In front of the misty geothermal steam vents, we put the iron baskets full of fresh ingredients into the high-temperature stone kiln with the kids, cover with the heavy wooden lid, and set the timer.
When the timer rings, put on gloves and take out the food! Be careful when handling—it's very hot.
For first-timers trying jigoku-mushi, we recommend ordering the egg. It looks ordinary, but after steaming with hot spring steam, the egg aroma is especially rich. When you peel the shell, hot steam slowly rises, and it's delicious simply with a bit of salt.
This time we also steamed vegetables and meat. Compared to regular boiling, jigoku-mushi retains more of the ingredients' natural flavor. Carrots and lotus root have natural sweetness, and pumpkin is soft and fluffy.
The meat is more tender due to the steaming method. With minimal seasoning, you can truly taste the ingredients themselves.
If bringing kids to Beppu, I think Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa is more fun than just eating at a restaurant. From choosing ingredients, timing, placing in the steamer to finally opening the lid, every step can be participated in.
It's not just a meal, but an interactive experience.
This half-day trip to Beppu, Umi Jigoku and Jigoku Mushi Kobo Kannawa offer completely different types of fun. Umi Jigoku is great for photos and appreciating nature's wonders; jigoku-mushi lets you experience Beppu's unique hot spring culture through taste and hands-on operation.
If planning a Beppu self-driving day trip, I highly recommend combining these two spots. Visit Umi Jigoku in the morning for photos and strolling, have lunch at Jigoku Mushi Kobo, then head to Yufuin in the afternoon—smooth route without rushing.
For our family, this was one of the most memorable days of our Kyushu family trip. Watching the kids experience geothermal steamed cuisine for the first time and see Umi Jigoku up close, the surprises and freshness of the journey are worth more than photos.
■ See more Kyushu travel and food:
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⚠️Notes:
Everyone's travel, attraction, and dining experiences and feelings differ. This article is only personal experience sharing; feel free to refer to it and decide for yourself whether to visit.
It's recommended to check information before departure to ensure a smoother and more enjoyable meal or itinerary!